What happened to Viennese Jews? A moving visit to the Jewish Museums in Vienna

Vienna is one of the most beautiful cities I’ve ever visited, in Europe and the world. Once the capital of a thriving empire, it is now the most important city for a country of just 8.5 million but it still has the grandeur of the place it once was. And the history.

The city certainly has a chequered past–and not only when it comes to the 20^th century. That was when my father, aged two, had to escape from the city of his birth as a toddler, arriving in London just two weeks before the start of World War II. There were some very dark times indeed.

That’s why – when I recently visited this remarkable city with my father and son – I knew we had to make a trip to its two Jewish museums. I would recommend them both whole heartedly.

The first Jewish Museum is in Judenplatz (“Jewish place”) and contains the excavations of the old medieval synagogue, one of the largest in the middle ages. It is a small museum, giving the history of the Jews in these times, when it was a thriving community – and showing what life was like then. We took audio guides round (these include one for children, which my son enjoyed using) and would definitely recommend it – although it is a small museum, which will take only an hour or so to go around.

[caption id="attachment_3784" align="alignnone" width="1200"] The Whiteread memorial to the Holocaust[/caption]

The Jewish community in Vienna was completely destroyed in a pogrom in 1420-1, with over 200 Jews burnt on Erdberger Lände, so it is perhaps fitting that Rachel Whitread’s memorial to the victims of the Holocaust is built over the top of where the old synagogue was discovered.  It is intended to remember the 65,000 Austrian Jews who were killed in the Holocaust.

[caption id="attachment_3785" align="alignnone" width="1200"] Robert at the remains of the old medieval synagogue[/caption]

The second museum is in Dorotheergasse and you need to leave yourself more time here. We were here for a few hours, but it could have been longer.

The museum was designed with the intention of not being solely a “Holocaust Museum”, but to show the history of the Jews in Vienna as a whole. That means the good and the bad, including the war years and the post-war years when Austria was not willing to face up to its actions, and wanted only to see itself as another victim of Nazi aggression (Hitler marched in to the country in 1938, but to widespread acclaim). That was really about life after survival, and the in face of no assistance from the Austrian authorities, at least for many years

Before 1938, the Viennese Jewish community was huge, around 185,000 people, smaller only than those in Warsaw and Budapest. It’s now around 8,000, and its story means there is so much to see in this museum.

[caption id="attachment_3786" align="alignnone" width="1200"] The box sent to Lilly Bial by her parents - and which she didn't receive until she was 79[/caption]

If it’s possible, I’d recommend a tour (book in advance). We did a short one, and even in that time we found out some fascinating bits of history – not least when we were shown a small box, full of treats, books and photographs, that had been packed for a young girl, Lilly Bial, who had left on the kindertransport and sent to England. She never saw her parents again and the box wasn’t found until 2004, long after they died. It was extremely moving.

Jews were expelled from Vienna in 1421 and returned in the 17^th century, where they lived mainly in a ghetto before being expelled again in 1670. They did return, but were not officially recognised as a community (despite helping to finance wars and industry), being officially outlawed until 1852.  They were at the forefront of the 1848 revolution and its failure was a great disappointment after the emperor then revoked some of their entitlements, such as the right to own property. However, the community was recognised in 1852 and in 1867, every person in the monarchy was deemed equal before the law.

However, even despite this, and a flowering of Jews in Vienna (including famous names such as Sigmund Freud),  it is clear from the exhibition that anti-Semitism never went away and grew, virulently, in the 20^th century.

The museum has a permanent exhibition, Our City! Jewish Vienna – from then to now, which covers two floors, and starts by looking at the city in 1945.

The second floor covers Jewish Vienna from the Middle Ages to 1938-45 and it is the one where we spent the longest time, reading about the history and looking at the items of interest. These were wide ranging and moving.

For example, there is a photo of 13-year-old Maximilian Reich in a 1941 Viennese photo studio with St. Stephan’s Cathedral as a backdrop. On the back he wrote a note to his friend Martin Vogel, urging him not to forget him. He was deported three days later.

[caption id="attachment_3787" align="alignnone" width="700"] Judaica - pic courtesy of the Jewish Museum, Vienna[/caption]

The top floor is based around the collection of a man called Max Berger who specialised in Judaica. There are really beautiful Jewish items on show, including ritual objects such Torah shields, pointers and crowns (used when the Torah – or books of the law – are read in synagogue), Chanukah menorahs, Sabbath candlesticks and more, from all round Europe, including many communities which no longer have any Jewish presence at all.

[caption id="attachment_3788" align="alignnone" width="675"] These walking sticks are caricatures[/caption]

There are also some more problematic items, such as anti-Semitic walking sticks (yes really) or other models or postcards which contain people who are supposed to “look” Jewish.

All in all, I felt that these two museums were both important places to visit, to show a side of our history, as European Jews, which no one should forget.

Both Jewish Museums are closed on Saturdays. The bigger museum in Dorotheergasse is open from Sunday to friday from 10 to 6pm, while the other is open from 10 to 6 on Sunday to Thursday and 10 till 2 on Fridays.

You can buy a ticket for both museums, as long as you use it within four days of issue. It costs €12 for aduts and is free for children under 18, as well as being free if you have a Vienna Pass. You can also book a guided tour if you like.

The Museum in Dorotheergasse also has a lovely cafe and there are also a number of temporary exhibitions, which change throughout the year.

A Tour of Hamleys, London

Robert, aged 11, writes:  Mum and I went on a special guided tour of Hamleys. We were shown around by Leah, who was really nice, funny and informative. Hamleys is 155 years old and is considered to be one of the best, or the best, toy shop in Britain.

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There are seven floors, the first of which being entirely devoted to Star Wars which I’m sure many kids would love. There was loads of cool memorabilia and Star Wars themed objects but my favourite thing on this floor had to be the one thing that wasn’t Star-Wars related. I absolutely loved trying out the virtual reality rollercoaster. I love rides and although I wasn’t on a real one I honestly felt like I was falling or going down a loop the loop. At one point I had to take the cardboard headset out because I felt like I was going to fall over.

[caption id="attachment_3766" align="aligncenter" width="1200"] The Star Wars VR headset was very realistic![/caption]

The ground floor was very hands on with lots to do. First we saw a magic show that I’m sure would blow plenty of people’s minds (although it wasn’t that cool for me as I learnt the tricks when I was younger) There was also a powder that expanded and turned into fake snow when added to water. I really liked the sensation when the powder changed in my hands. On this floor there were also boomerang aeroplanes, which I had a go at throwing, as well as remote control cars, giant inflatable Frisbees and a board which you could draw on with anything.

[caption id="attachment_3767" align="aligncenter" width="1200"] There was lots to try out, such as huge boomerangs![/caption]

There was a floor for babies and a floor which was all about dolls and princesses (it was very pink), which funnily enough I didn’t spend much time on. Further up there was more magic, car racing and a large selection of drones. I loved the hover kick, a flat ball that floats along the ground. It was one of my favourite things in the shop so I bought it. There was a section on Harry Potter, loads of games and a blaster that shot air at people when pulled back. I really enjoyed looking at a range of pens that all had unique abilities, changing colour or not being able to be drawn on.

[caption id="attachment_3765" align="aligncenter" width="1200"] There were lots of sweets, and we took a lot home![/caption]

Finally we came to the sweet section ( woooooooooooooooooooooooh ) There was a pick n mix, candy canes, milkshakes and bars of chocolate. Of course we had to try them!

We were then taken to a room that looked as though it was set up for a party with a table with juice and a giant cake. Leah then told us that everything was for us so I ended up getting a whole cake as well as a cute teddy to end off the tour, and a bar of Hamleys chocolate.

Personally it was one of the best things I have done in a long time and would recommend it for everyone! Although I have enjoyed going to Hamleys in the past, it was really special to go round with a guide, who picked out things that she thought I would enjoy and could help us to jump any queues!

Disclosure: We took part in the tour of Hamleys as part of a complimentary luxury family package stay at the Marylebone hotel (see here for our post). This includes a night at the hotel, breakfast and other special family-friendly extras. Neither Hamleys or the hotel had any input into this blog post.

Guided tours of Hamleys cost £40 per person for a minimum of four guests and last for an hour and a half. See more on their website

More posts about London:

A luxury family stay at the Marylebone hotel

5 cool places to eat in London

Great for all the family: Luxury at the Marylebone hotel

[caption id="attachment_3748" align="alignnone" width="1200"] Robert and his teepee bed![/caption]

Robert, who's 11, writes:

We stayed a night at the Marylebone Hotel in central London and I really enjoyed it. The building was massive and so were our rooms, and the hotel is right in the centre of Marylebone, which is a really lovely part of London - easy to walk round, very central (it's near Bond Street and Oxford Street) and with loads of shops and cafes nearby. It would be very good for tourists from overseas too.

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The Marylebone Hotel takes interconnecting rooms to the next level by giving us two completely separate rooms with a small hall in the middle (you can see this on our video!). There was also a sliding wall that closed off the sleeping area for Jess and me. That meant there was no one to bother me and I could do what I wanted. We have never seen interconnecting rooms like this, and thought they were amazing.

[caption id="attachment_3749" align="alignnone" width="1200"] Milk and cookies![/caption]

We were trying out a special family stay which is set up for kids. This meant that I was given complimentary cookies, macaroons and milk to have as a midnight feast and I also got a range of awesome goodies that included a teddy bear and a portable four-in-a-row game (which mum and I played a number of times). Plus, I had the privilege of sleeping in a tepee which was super cool and really exciting.

[caption id="attachment_3750" align="alignnone" width="1200"] Enjoying the mocktails at dinner time![/caption]

We had a delicious dinner. I personally had about five drinks including two massive mocktails. The bread they gave us was delicious; I really enjoyed my fish and chips and the dessert (desserts) was superb. Nothing beats a good lemon tart, although I know mum was also very happy with her chocolate melting pudding and peanut butter ice-cream.

In my children’s package I was given a list of movies (although to be honest there wasn’t a very good choice of films and they should probably increase what's on offer) I picked the Angry birds Movie which I then watched on the biggest TV I have ever seen - when I came into the room I thought it was just a big mirror! The film was good and even better after I started eating the biscuits.

The bathroom was great, there was a really nice shower and we were given those cool white robes. Plus, mum really liked all the toiletries (they were Aromatherapy Associates). Everyone was really nice and the staff were really quick to bring us anything we needed.

Breakfast was even better than dinner! There were muffins, croissants as well as eggs, cereal and loads more. I ate so much and drank a lot too, and everyone was really nice.

[caption id="attachment_3751" align="alignnone" width="1200"] Enjoying breakfast[/caption]

Overall I had a fantastic stay. I loved the rooms, the food and the complimentary gifts and it was so cool to sleep in a tepee. I would definitely recommend the children’s package to any child aged 12 or below and think that the whole family would have a great time here. I also know that mum and dad and Jess all had a great time too, thoroughly enjoyed the food and felt very relaxed afterwards. Dad even tried out the gym the next morning!

Mum and I also had a brilliant guided tour of Hamleys as part of the stay, and you can read about that here.

Disclosure: we were offered an overnight stay and breakfast at the Marylebone Hotel in order to review it. However, the hotel had no input into this blog post at all.

The luxury family package is meant for between 3-5 guests and costs from £750 a night.

What to do in Plymouth (by Jessica)

Jess writes:

Mum and I really enjoyed exploring Plymouth. We had a great time and did lots of things, but these were our highlights…We were also lucky that the sun shone!

The Barbican

We spent most of our time in the Barbican, which is the name given to the western and northern sides of the old harbour area of Plymouth. It is home to a variety of things, especially LOADS of sweet and fudge shops! These shops consisted of pretty much every single flavour of fudge you could think of - from Crunchie bars to lemon meringue, rum and raisin to Bounty bars. Our favourite fudge was millionaire’s shortbread flavour! We also enjoyed a variety of ice creams, including nougat wafers, which were vanilla ice cream sandwiched between a thin wafer and nougat covered in chocolate. They were delicious.

If you're in Plymouth, do take a walk around here, and visit some of the lovely places to eat the sweet stuff! We'd recommend Valenti's and Pilgrims.

[caption id="attachment_441" align="aligncenter" width="940"] A delicious nougat wafer from Petres[/caption]

There is also lots of history in the Barbican, from The Mayflower to Elizabethan merchant house and the old, Elizabethan cobbled streets.

The Barbican is home to the National Marine Aquarium, which is supposed to be amazing. Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time to visit.

 

[caption id="attachment_444" align="aligncenter" width="940"] The pilgrims set sail from Plymouth in the 17th century[/caption]

The Mayflower Steps

The world famous Mayflower Steps are the spot closest to the site on the Barbican where the Pilgrim Fathers set sail for North America in 1620. It is a beautiful setting, and there are loads of plaques to read.

The Mayflower Museum

The Mayflower Museum is a really interesting museum telling you about Native America and the Pilgrim Fathers. It's not huge, but it's got lots of interactive things to do for kids and a top floor which gives you good views of the harbour. It would also be interesting for any American visitors as it will tell you all you need to know about the famous trip from one Plymouth to another!

It costs £2.50 for adults and just £1 for kids (aged 5-16)

Plymouth Hoe


Plymouth Hoe is a fantastic place with breathtaking views over Plymouth Sound, a picturesque natural harbour. There are statues, restaurants and of course, some absolutely beautiful walks to take. Mum and I had a great time walking across the seafront. On a sunny day, like the one we had, the views are sublime, with unpolluted water and green grass. Something we particularly liked looking at was the statue of Sir Francis Drake - who, of course, was supposed to play a game of bowls as he waited for the Armada to arrive.

Smeaton’s Tower Lighthouse

Smeaton’s Tower Lighthouse looks fabulous from the outside, and is definitely worth a visit, although it's only got 93 steps, they are steep (so not great for very little ones). However, it's definitely worth it as the views are incredible, and you can see the harbour, cliffs and beyond. It's also got a little museum which is really interesting and tells you about museums, engineering and more.

It's open every day from 10am till 5pm and costs £4 for adults and £2 for children.

 

[caption id="attachment_443" align="aligncenter" width="940"] Tinside Lido looked gorgeous![/caption]

The Tinside Lido

Mum and I hadn’t brought our swimming costumes, but the Tinside Lido is a glorious outdoor art deco swimming pool which had a £3.3 million restoration in 2003. The Lido reopened in 2012 and now has fountains, inflatable fun sessions, views across Plymouth Sound, a sunbathing terrace, lounger, deckchair and wetsuit hire and refreshments. It looked extremely tempting.

 Royal Citadel

The Royal Citadel is one of the most impressive 17th century fortresses in Britain and for many years was England’s most important defence against attack from the sea. The Citadel has been in constant military occupation since it was built and today it is home to the troops of 29 Commando Royal Artillery. There are tours of the Royal Citadel on Tuesday, Thursdays and Sundays, but only from May to the end of September and you have to book them in advance. This meant we couldn't visit - although we enjoyed walking round the outside.

 

Obviously, there are many more things to do in Plymouth, but these were definitely some of our favourites. Plymouth is a beautiful city, and we would definitely recommend a visit.

More by me:

No 1 Royal Crescent in Bath

An awesome time at Hever Castle

A relaxing holiday in Newport, Rhode Island

This blog is called Family Travel Times and one very important member of that family is my lovely niece, Ella, who is now 17. Here she writes about a trip to the gorgeous city of Newport, in New England, USA.

"I recently visited Newport, a beautiful coastal city in Rhode Island. Having arrived in Newport following a truly incredible, but extremely intense and busy, five day stay in New York, the relaxing town was exactly what I needed.

Newport is famous for its historic mansions. During the Gilded Age, America’s wealthiest families flocked there – and to the surrounding areas – in the summer. Today, more than a dozen of these properties have been preserved, and tourists are able to visit them. Although my family and I did not choose to go inside any of the mansions, we drove from one to the next and marvelled at the impressive buildings and beautiful views.

Also, located in Newport is the Touro Synagogue. This is a 1763 synagogue, and is the oldest synagogue building still standing in the United States.  The synagogue is extremely historically significant, as it was the second oldest Jewish congregation in the America, home to a congregation called ‘Nephuse Israel’, meaning Scattered of Israel.

[caption id="attachment_3714" align="alignnone" width="480"] Ella at the Touro Synagogue in Newport[/caption]

The earliest known Jewish settlers in Newport arrived from Barbados, where a Jewish community had existed since the 1620s. They were of Spanish and Portuguese origin; their families had migrated from Amsterdam and London to Brazil and then to islands in the Caribbean. I first visited the museum attached to the Synagogue, to find out initial facts about the history of it. Here, you can purchase tickets for a tour of the actual Synagogue building, which was accompanied by a talk by a volunteer. Tickets for this were $12 for adults and $8 dollars for students. Children 13 and under were free. The talk inside the synagogue was very interesting; the speaker was open to questions and providing further insight into this synagogue and its fascinating history.

Whilst staying in Newport, my family decided to take advantage of our hire care and drive to a shopping outlet. The Wrentham Premium outlets are easily reachable, in the direction of Boston, and the journey took only an hour. This was particularly beneficial, as clothing is not taxable in Massachusetts – so if you’re going to shop anywhere, do it there!

There was also a lovely range of shops in Newport itself. The town centre was quaint and sweet, with a real community atmosphere – everyone was friendly and welcoming (and I’m sure the novelty of the British accent did help!). Shops here included Gap and Sephora, as well as several unique shops, selling homemade gifts and goods and perfect souvenirs to remember your trip.

Another exciting thing to do in Newport is the Cliff walk This is a 3.5 mile path, through which you can experience both the natural beauty of the incredible coastline, and the architectural history of the Gilded Age. You will experience stunning views of the oceans, and be able to see the historic mansions. If the weather is right, this is a must!

[caption id="attachment_3716" align="alignnone" width="1024"] The beautiful cliff walk (picture by Giorgio Galeotti)[/caption]

Overall, visiting Newport was a great experience, and one I would definitely recommend for all the family, especially those with slightly older kids like us (aged 13 and 17). The atmosphere was something special and unique, and there is also something to be said for the fact that everything was in walking distance. It was a welcoming town, with beautiful scenery and a striking coast. It was the perfect addition to our holiday to America, and complimented the bustling nature of our stay in New York perfectly – I would highly recommend combining a visit to New York with a visit here. You need some relaxation on holiday!"

More on America:

What to do in Washington DC with kids

Read more by Ella on her visits with her family to Barcelona and Copenhagen